Now the Fun Begins!
What we have now is a hull with a poor shape. The bottom is too flat at the ends and there is no rocker to the keel line. To correct this, we must force the bottom panels to go from almost flat, to just about vertical at the ends.
First we support the boat by the clamping supports to the sides and to the bottom of our work stands. I made sure mine were level by placing a level across the sheer clamps about 3 feet from each end. Cut a piece of stock to spread the side panels to their correct beam dimensions. Now you need to squeeze the bottom panels into shape by hand, use clamps to hold the shape as and after you form them by hand. You will break or have to loosen/remove some of the wires during this process. Take your time here, the shape you form now will forever be the shape after you epoxy. If in doubt, squeeze the ends MORE.
One of a couple of clamps used to "force" the bow into shape. This where a little more is better than a little less!
Now that the ends are shaped, it's time to check the keel line for any high or low spots. It is a little hard to judge this since there is a wire tie every 4 inches, but use your best "Eye", and a straightedge and you should be able to get a nice fair curve to the bottom. I worked from the middle of the boat and out to the ends and it seemed to go fairly easy. If you have a high spot, remove the wires in that area and plane a little material away to bring the panels closer together and "flatter". Low spots can be fixed with a little wedge of wood between the panels, forcing them apart and higher. Keep at it until you are pleased with the keel curve.
Next check along the side panels for any waves or mis-shape, loosen wires and force the panels back into place if need be. I did not have to do much to the sides. After you make a change to a side/bottom area, double check to make sure you have not affected the keel line. If you did, go back the the keel line and fix it there.
This whole process can take a good deal of time, but it is one of your most important steps, so take your time. What you set up here is going to be PERMANENT soon.
Here is my solution to keeping the stern shaped the way I wanted during the seam taping.
After you are sure you have taken care of every high-low-wave- and other misshapen area, it's time to mix up some epoxy , lay the fillets and tape the seams!
This is easier than it sounds. Mix up some epoxy and add wood flour until it has the consistency of peanut butter. Take the screw out of the bow point sheer clamps, apply the glue and put the screw back in. Repeat for the Stern.
Now spread it in the seams thick enough to cover the wires. I used a piece of plastic cut from a water bottle to force the material into the seam and smooth it at the same time. Don't waste too much time trying to make the fillets too smooth and pretty, that comes later. Just get a good cover over the wires.
Now, lay the 3" fiberglass tape over the filler and brush on some un-thickened epoxy. Smooth out any air bubbles and force the epoxy deep into the tape at the same time. I used a 2" plastic putty knife for this part. It worked great and allows you to move the fillet material under the tape into a nice smooth curve at the seam.
When you finish with this , put on another layer of tape and epoxy. While you are at it, now is a fine time to coat the inside of the boat with epoxy, or take a break and do it later. Keep the epoxy warm and put it on thin. This stuff runs like crazy event though it's so sticky. Don't worry about any runs you end up with, you can simply sand them away after it cures. Remember, the only place anyone is going to see the runs, is in the cockpit area's! Spend your extra care here.